[post updated 6/11/2017]
All About Jeep Wheels
Wheels are a big deal. In addition to being a key factor in your ride’s functionality and performance, they have an enormous effect on the look and ride of your vehicle. They also come in many sizes, materials and colors. In this post we’ll break down the different options that you have when picking wheels for your Jeep.
Stock Wheel Dimensions – For Reference
Standard Jeep Wrangler Factory (Original Equipment Manufacturer) Wheels Measurements:
| YEAR | O.E.M WHEEL SIZE |
LUG PATTERN METRIC |
LUG PATTERN INCHES |
STUD SIZE | HUB/CENTER BORE |
| 87-06 | 15″-16″ | 5×114.3mm | 5×4.5in | 1/2″x20 | 71.5 |
| 07-UP | 16″-18″ | 5×127mm | 5×5in | 1/2″x20 | 71.5 |
The stock JK wheels are 7.0” or 7.5” wide and have 6.25″ of backspacing.
Backspacing
Backspacing is the distance measured from the mounting surface of your wheel to the inside edge of the wheel rim – see diagram below. For a stock JK wheel that means that the inner lip of the wheel extends 6.25” inward (towards the frame) from the mounting surface of the wheel.
Generally speaking, since the mounting surface is fixed to the vehicle, the greater the backspace value, the more the wheel will tuck inwards towards the suspension and under the fender. A smaller backspace value will push the wheel away from the suspension and towards / beyond the fender.
The backspacing of factory wheels is large and designed to keep the tires under the fenders and keep you legal in all 50 states (even though many states have no laws preventing tires from extending beyond the fenders, a few do). Installing wider and taller tires on factory wheels can easily result in those new larger tires rubbing on suspension components. This is why most people opt to decrease their wheel backspacing in an effort to move their larger tires outward and away from any potential rubbing problems.
When buying new wheels for 12.5″ wide tires 4.7″ backspacing is the maximum (largest number, smallest amount of outward offset) necessary to prevent rubbing, and 4.5″ is recommended. For 14.5” wide tires 4″-3.75″ is necessary.
Smaller May Be Better?
(bigger sidewall looks bigger and smother ride)
Hub-Centric v. Lug Centric (Acorn Style Lugs)
This is almost not a question anymore. Back “in the day” most Jeep owners looked for hub-centric wheels. This means that the hole in the center of the wheel rests on the cylinder that protrudes from the axle. With Lug-Centric wheels the hole in the center of the wheel is larger than the cylinder protruding from the axle and the lug studs are all that keep the wheel centered on the axle. Hub centric wheel’s center made a snug fit, so the weight of the vehicle primarily sat on the center of the wheel instead of on the studs. While lug-centric wheel were fine, hub-centric provided that additional piece of mind knowing that any hard bumps would not be impact the lug studs.
At this time the point it moot, as it’s getting almost impossible to find hub-centric wheels. Wheel manufactures would prefer to not make different wheels for each hub diameter produced by the car manufactures. If you can find a hub-centric wheel (AES used to still make them) you will be greatly limiting your wheel choices to a few made by that manufacture.
But, 15″ May Be Too Small
A common question is: Do 15″ wheels fit a Jeep JK? You will find that 15” tires are significantly less expensive than any other tire alternative. This question is not easy to answer. The issue is that the smaller diameter wheel may not fit over the larger brake caliper on a Jeep JK. The ability to squeeze the smaller wheel on a JK is depends on the material that the wheel is made out of, the thickness of the material and the amount of backspace (very small backspacing may kick the wheel out far enough to clear the caliper). Generally speaking, steel wheels are made of thinner material, but are generally heavier than their lighter alloy cousins.
And, then there’s “Dubs”
And, while we’re talking about extremes, let get it out of the way; yes, you can run “dubs” (20″ wheels, or double-dubs – 22” wheels, or even 24” wheels) on a Jeep with the appropriate lift (I don’t judge, but you won’t get “the wave” with Dubs, I’m just saying …)
Pict 4
Bead Locks
Pros and Cons of Wheel Width
What are the pros and cons of wheel size? A larger wheel will reduce tire sidewall flexing and this will provide better handling on the pavement, and less sidewall can help to make you feel more stable in leaning situations as well. Small wheels will provide for more sidewall and will provide a smoother ride on the road and allow the tire to flex more providing better tread contact and more traction off road.
Q: How do you determine what size tire will fit what size rim correctly?
A: Typically, most off road tires come in a 12.50″ width and for the most part require an 8”-10″ wide rim. However, unless you are running beadlocks, I would recommend that you select a wheel that is 8″-9” in width or there about. When aired down for the trail, the narrower width will help prevent your tires from losing a bead.
Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Weather you know it or not, your original factory Jeep JK comes with a Tire Pressure Monitoring System or TPMS for short. The purpose of TPMS is to monitor your tire pressure and warn you if any one of your tires is significantly under-inflated and possibly causing an unsafe situation.
Pict 5
This device is actually a small electronic tire pressure gauge with a low powered radio that transmits its reading to the vehicle’s computer. The TPMS indicator is a yellow symbol that illuminates on the dashboard instrument panel of your Jeep and looks like the cross-section of your tire with an exclamation point.
Pict 6 – tire
Before this indicator light, knowing whether your air pressure was low using a tire gauge, or “eye balling” how much your tires bowed where they rest on the ground. This is especially difficult on large off road tires, and even more difficult with tires that are aired-down.
When replacing your wheels you’ll need to make a decision about the TPMS sensors that would be included on your factory wheels. These sensors typically last for 7 to 10 years. If you’re reusing your factory wheels you can just leave them in place. If you’re buying new wheels you have the option to (a) move them to the new wheels, (b) buy new ones (for about $45 a piece, and the spare has one too), of (c) eliminate them and just in stall regular valve stems.
I always ensure that the TPMS is operating when I upgrade a vehicle. I know that most vehicles will be driven on the highway / at high speeds, and I never know who might end-up driving the vehicle. Additionally, if you just replace the TPMS sensors with valve steps you will be faced with the annoying low pressure dash indicator.
The one down side of maintaining the TPMS is that some Jeep owners will choose to run their tires slightly under inflated (because it improves ride quality, offsetting the more firm ride that comes for higher load rated truck tires; or because they’re running a wheel that is on the narrow side and know that achieving even tire wear across the tread will require a little less air pressure)
Always remember
Don’t forget that you may need 5 wheels if you’re replacing the spare as well
And, don’t forget new lug nuts. New lug nuts are usually a good idea just to ensure that you’re getting the correct lug to match the wheels that you’re buying. Standard Jeep axles have 5 lugs each (for 20 total) and most spare tire carriers have 3 lugs to hold the spare (for a grand total of 23 lugs. If you live is a questionable neighborhood, or intend to leave the vehicle unattended you may also want to consider lock lugs to make it more difficult to steal you’re wheels while you’re sleeping or away (you may also want to consider moving; seriously, life is short, why spend it living around people that want to steal your expensive stuff).




